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Currie Trackbar Installation Write Up by JLS  8/22/2006

Fix That Bump Steer!  ◆◆◇◇ Medium


Introduction

Fixed AngleAfter the install of my 4” lift kit I started to hear all sorts of noise coming from my steering components during turns. In addition to the noises I was hearing the track bar relocation bracket created too much leverage on the stock mounting location and continually needed tightening, compromising safety. In short, the dropped pitman arm that was included with the lift and installed along with the track bar relocation bracket played havoc with my steering geometry. Currie Enterprises and 4x4GroupBuy.com to the rescue with adjustable front track bar CE-9120.

  

Tools & Parts Needed

Pickle Fork

BFH

½” drill

9/16” drill bit (sharp)

Torque Wrench

22mm Wrench

¾ Wrench

13/16” socket (for the frame mount bolt-test your bolt at the hardware store before you buy this as mine was a bit loose)

Large Crescent wrench for the jam nut

Anti-seize lubricant

Grease Gun

Tape Measure

A typical socket set will be needed for the axle side mount

 

Symptom Fixed

Bump Steer

Improper steering geometry

Increased safety (as long as the Johnny Joint doesn’t go bad)

Odd noises caused by improper steering geometry

 

After Lift and Before any Fixes

Before Fix 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After Lift with stock pitman arm and track bar bracket

After Fix 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Job Hours

2-3hours depending on your skill level

 

 

Procedure


This is where the write-up picks up…

Cotter Pin RemovalCastle Nut RemovalFirst: remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut using a ¾ wrench.

 

 

 

 

Pickle Fork UsageTrack Bar Pickle ForkSecond: Grab your BFH and pickle fork and go to town… it takes quite a few whacks. I started small and worked my way up to pretty hard and it loosened fairly easy. If the pickle fork doesn’t get yours loose you can try a puller but the pickle fork should be plenty.

 

*Note from Michael:  You can also hit the tie rod end of the track bar directly with the hammer to remove the trackbar.

 

 

Loose Track BarOnce the frame mount is loose you will know.

 

 

Axle Mount OffThird: remove the axle side of the track bar – save original hardware for re-use.

 

 

 

 

Stock vs. CurrieNow you can compare the two track bars

 

 

Drill FrameFourth: open up the frame mount with your sharp 9/16” drill bit – be careful as hot metal shavings will be flying at your face – wear eye and face protection.

 

 

 

Torque WrenchFifth: tighten up the frame mount to 85 ft-lb – on the TJ you do not need the flat washer included with the track bar. Use anti-seize lubricant on the bolt.

 

 

 

Sixth: Take measurements and make sure your axle is centered under the vehicle. Have a friend help with the measuring. Once it is centered attach and tighten the axle end of the track bar.

 

 

Axle Mount Bolt InstallSeventh: Tighten the axle mount to 50 ft-lb using original hardware. Use anti-seize lubricant on the bolt.

 

 

 

 

 Eighth: grease fittings

 

 

Tightening Jam NutNinth: Tighten the Jam Nut – very tight

 

 

 

After Lift and all Fixed

Fixed Angle After about 3000 miles all is performing as expected. No loosening of any components. No more noises. Better handling compared to the old setup. I would recommend the

CE-9120 to anyone looking for a sturdy track bar. (the JKS version OGS125 is exactly the same)

PM JLS with questions. 

  


If you have any questions or recommendations, please let me know!!

 

Disclaimer

I tried my best to document as much as possible along with pictures.  I hope you find them useful. However, do use the information provided here "as-is".  DailyDrivenTJ.com or the author does not warrant or assume any legal liability or responsibility for the accuracy, completeness, or usefulness of any information, or process disclosed.  Use the information at your own risk.

 

Uploaded by Michael on 8.26.2006.

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